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Written by:missfish
Posted on:February 8, 2011 at 7:57 pm

As 1st assistant to Mr Someguy, I learned that “Yes we can” tear apart and rebuild our engine is not only possible, but almost enjoyable. Of course, the trip to Toyota to buy replacement “O” rings was due to my clumsy and inexperienced removal technique, but I still managed to maintain my status as 1st (and only) assistant.

Written by:bearman
Posted on:June 17, 2011 at 1:49 pm

Someguy. You are a genius. The starter on my 2003 crapped out last night. I have a daunting project ahead of me, but this page will give me all I need to get the job done. Thanks a bunch.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:June 18, 2011 at 6:16 am

Glad we could point the way. Let us know how it goes!

Written by:catfishes
Posted on:June 25, 2011 at 12:21 pm

I had estimates from $500 to $800 to fix or replace the starter with a rebuilt one (4 – 5 hours labor). We’re not mechanics (but somewhat mechanically inclined), and using your page as our guide my son and I pulled the starter and had it repaired and back running again in 2 1/2 hours and $69.

We sincerely thank you. Your page with pictures and descriptions was the perfect guide.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:June 25, 2011 at 5:23 pm

Glad it helped! It’s interesting that the quotes for your repair were 50% less than the quotes we got.

Written by:elconsuelodemayo
Posted on:July 6, 2011 at 9:22 pm

WOW!! What more can I say.. other than THANK YOU!!!!! Our starter is definately going out..very nervous..but we dont have the money to have it done at the dealer or a shop. Your instructions are fabulous! I Pray that we get it right and fix it..
Thanks again!!

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:July 6, 2011 at 10:07 pm

Good luck! We’ll be rootin’ for ya! Let us know how it goes.

Written by:Travis Johnson
Posted on:July 24, 2011 at 10:34 pm

I’m going to tackle this on my 2000 tundra in a couple days….I’m not a mechanic by any stretch, but after reading your post and looking at the pics I think I can do this. I will let you know how it goes!

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:July 24, 2011 at 11:12 pm

Good luck! We’d like to hear how it went.

Written by:Efrain
Posted on:August 12, 2011 at 7:30 pm

Great Job of documenting this entire process!! The Internet is such and awesome tool especially with people such as yourselves, that take the time and effort to document projects. It makes it so easy for the regular Joe Blow.
I just now finished taking the starter out. I was really struggling with Chilton manual. What a piece of crap!

I don’t usually go online and post but you guys deserve it! Thank you very much!


Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:August 12, 2011 at 7:52 pm

Thanks, Efrain. We found that the internet was much better than the Chilton as well. Hope the repair goes smoothly for you!

Written by:Travis Johnson
Posted on:August 24, 2011 at 4:49 am

I did it. I followed every one of your instructions and I pulled it off! Took me about 6 hrs. The hardest part of the job was getting the old starter off and the new one back on. Man, those bolts are hard to get too and tight.

Thanks again for posting this. I told a female friend what I was about to do and told her I got it off a website called “some guy in Nevada” and she just rolled her eyes. Well, thank you Some Guy In Nevada!

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:August 25, 2011 at 2:56 am

Hey Travis…You’re welcome! I’m glad it worked for you. It’s definitely an adrenaline boost when you turn the key and the truck starts right up.

Written by:lionheart
Posted on:August 27, 2011 at 4:19 pm

My dear friends, you should get paid for this, the detail, the pics, the step by step instructions, mechanics must hate you. damm good job, thanks a mil.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:August 27, 2011 at 4:37 pm

Actually, our mechanic was impressed and gave us a pat on the back. We bring her enough work that we’re not putting her out of business anytime soon.

Written by:Gary Davis
Posted on:September 1, 2011 at 3:45 am

Well Thank You Nevada Guy. I have been a tow truck driver for 18 years now and today I had to crawl under a tundra to troubleshoot a no crank problem. I searched for 30 minutes and thought I was loosing my mind. Where the heck was the starter. Luckily simply rocking the truck back and forth disengaged the stuck starter and off the customer went. Ofcourse with my advise that she consult her local mechanic of choice.
Thanks again for assuring me that I had not been doing this job for to long.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:September 1, 2011 at 6:15 am

Glad we could preserve on-the-job sanity. The apparent lack of a starter drove me nuts at first. I thought that it had fallen off somewhere.

Written by:KyWildcatFan
Posted on:October 2, 2011 at 10:11 pm

This was fantastic and I agree with the others that you have helped – these were absolutely perfect instructions. Thanks so much! I took about two weeks of limited evenings to do it and your pictures and text were on the money. The starter bolts about killed me since I’m a big boy but I did it by feel like you said and it worked out. I did some price comparisons I would like to pass on to others. The Toyota starter was $252 but I got one from Auto Zone for $72 that is guaranteed for life. For some reason the smaller one with less oomph was $130 so I got the larger for 1/2 the price(the $72 one). They looked exactly the same and the Auto Zone guys did not know why this was so. They said to just go with the cheaper one. Got the intake manifold gaskets from Toyota for $50 because AZ and Pep Boys were upper and lower as a kit and were $70. I just needed the lower of course. I also got the fuel pulsator washers from Toyota for $2 each. I did get the throttle body gasket from AZ for $20 and it’s a perfect match. So mixing and matching I did the entire job w/ all new gaskets for $157 which beats $1500 at dealership. Thanks Someguy!

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:October 8, 2011 at 5:28 pm

Thanks for the price tips! The one O’Reilly’s in our town had to special order the starter, and the price was suspiciously similar to Toyota’s, so I bet that they were just going to resell one that they bought from the dealership.

Yeah, those starter bolts are a killer. I bet that there’s a special technique or tool hidden away somewhere, but I didn’t find it. If anyone has a nifty trick to get a torque wrench to work in that tiny little space, let us know!

Written by:guy in TN
Posted on:October 18, 2011 at 10:39 pm

wow lots of people having starter problems. i am going to atemp this install next week. im ordering all the parts online.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:October 19, 2011 at 4:49 am

Good luck, Guy in TN! It’s time consuming but pretty easy once it’s all done…and a lot cheaper.

Written by:slowtwitch
Posted on:October 26, 2011 at 10:40 am

Finished putting a new starter last night. Used you instructions and it went off without a hitch! Hardest part is getting the starter off (hands are not happy!). Thanks again!

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:October 26, 2011 at 6:39 pm

Glad it worked for you! Yeah, I’m not sure how the pros get their hands behind the engine to reach the starter bolts easily. Maybe they use child labor.

Written by:freddie
Posted on:November 6, 2011 at 4:27 am

thanks for the pictures

Written by:mogey from IL
Posted on:November 10, 2011 at 12:25 am

Well I am half way done…got new starter on. Waiting on gaskets in mail tomorrow to finish putting back together. I had downloaded repair manual from Toyota and between it and your posting all made pretty good sense. I definitely had problems getting old starter off… laying on stomach holding my head on top of firewall for support, all different angles. My neck will be sore tomorrow. But got it off and new one on. Had to go buy a deep well 14 MM socket I didn’t have. And like you said both bolts on starter required a little different approach. Went back on a little easier. Thanks.

Written by:Russell
Posted on:November 19, 2011 at 7:50 pm

Great job, I am going to pay the $900 that Toyota wants to do it. I have found local shops at 750 but would rather go toyotas trail. Now I envy you that you did this and cataloged all that you did. This kind if stuff that they did with the stater makes me want to sell my 2007 Tundra 5.7 liter and buy a 1969 something with a six that I can work on. My toyota has been great 132250 miles and this is the first thing to go. Buy why in the center of the engine…… residual radiation from heroshima and nagasaqi and no I could not spell them if my starter depended on it. And for those researching this is the best info I have found.

Written by:guy in tn
Posted on:November 21, 2011 at 9:58 pm

Finshed two weeks ago. With new redtop batterie, everything was good started up good, went with a remanufactor starter, now regretting. This morning started -n ran fine but this afternoon same thing happened. A clicking no start. At first i thought it was the relay. Nope. I got new connections to batterie. Could it be my remaufactor starter. I’m bout to burn this truck n walk away

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:November 22, 2011 at 4:53 am

Don’t set it on fire! Then you’d have no truck, a scorched driveway, *and* you’d have to come up with something to tell the fire marshall!

Dang. It sure sounds like they sold you a bum starter. Time to raise some hell. If there’s a “click”, then I bet that the relay is good. Maybe it’s the starter solenoid itself?

Written by:bohdan47
Posted on:November 23, 2011 at 11:58 pm

i have remove intake manifold in my toy tundra 2008 , due to change knock sensor(small thing on pasenger side on your pic)but removing procedure is same!

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:November 24, 2011 at 3:44 am

Thanks. This how-to was a result of not finding anything comprehensive on the web. I’m honored that it helped.

Written by:guy in TN
Posted on:December 8, 2011 at 7:03 pm

havnt had time to take the starter out yet. but yes i do get a clicking when i turn the key, now my batterie is dead. left alone for weeks, its a new redtop batt. i so dread doing this now. only days off i hav is sundays and every sunday rains, no garage, so im outside in the cold.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:December 9, 2011 at 9:46 pm

Raise some hell and get your money back for that refurb starter. There will be a sunny Sunday sometime soon. Advantage: you’ve already done the job, so it should go faster and easier the second time.

Written by:guy in TN
Posted on:February 1, 2012 at 12:00 am

Finally fixed !!!! yea i knocked out the starter in two hours install. easier the second time around. i ran into another problem, when i left my truck sitting for a long time my new batt died. turn out that my ground on the batt terminal was bad. i went with a denso remanufactor starter and it start like when we first got the truck. dont ever buy bosch or the worldwide start (products) stick with denso and trd parts. pay more for the right stuff, dont be like me and go cheap and waste more time and money, in the long run it cheap will get you shi*

Written by:Doug
Posted on:February 15, 2012 at 3:11 pm

I am having problems with my 2000 Tundra starting. But I don’t hear a click when I try to start it. So Im not sure it is my starter. By the way my truck has 236,000 miles on it and it is the first starter it came with so I am thinking it is the starter. What do yall think?

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:February 15, 2012 at 5:40 pm

Excellent, Tennessee! Glad you didn’t set the truck on fire after all.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:February 15, 2012 at 5:49 pm

Without the telltale ‘click’ from the relay, I’d suspect something else…maybe the relay itself? Outside of a bad battery, I sure don’t have an easy answer. The ground wire from the battery to the block/chassis may be bad (happened to me once). If not then, start with the connection from the battery to the ignition switch to the neutral safety switch to the starter relay. It’s gonna take some poking around. Heck, with all the computerized components, maybe there’s something unrelated to the starter that’s preventing the truck from starting. You got a mechanic friend who can check diagnostic codes?

Written by:Vegas Guy
Posted on:February 20, 2012 at 10:29 pm

Someguy…..Thank you for the detailed instructions! They worked fabulously. Three years ago, I had this starter problem first occur. After spending $1,200 at the dealership, I thought it was taken care of for a long time. Wrong. Not wanting to be out another $1,200, I decided to take it on myself. Your instructions were much more clear than anything else I found. After only getting 3 years out of a “new” starter from the dealership, I decided to go with a rebuild on the existing starter. Other than the contacts and plunger, all other parts were in excellent shape. I took the starter in to a starter/alternator shop where they did the work for me. Incidentally, when they took the starer apart, I noticed the plunger was not the same as the new replacement I had. The starter guy pointed out to me that the plunger in the starter (purchased from the dealership) was aftermarket, not OEM. The new parts I had were OEM. The plunger that was in there had very thin copper, thus the short life. Based on this experience, I would be inclined to recommend a rebuild of the existing starter, to make sure the internals are done with OEM parts.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:February 21, 2012 at 1:29 am

Hah! With that flimsy plunger, it sure sounds like the dealer’s plan was to have you come crawling back for another $1200 thrashing. I find it really hard to believe that the tech who replaced the plunger didn’t notice that it was the wrong one. That sort of suspicious and shady behavior from our dealer is what got me under the hood of my own truck. I would have gone the same route of solenoid plunger/contact replacement if I already had the 2.0 KW starter.

After screwing us over another unrelated problem, our dealer up here even demanded that we give them a five star review with Toyota HQ. I’m going to go pour myself a beer and drink to defying dirty dealership practices.

Written by:William Taylor
Posted on:March 12, 2012 at 9:11 pm

Very informative….Very professional!

Written by:Tim
Posted on:March 24, 2012 at 8:01 pm

Well my friend, your instructions were amazing! A total of about 4 1/2 hours, replaced contacts and a $60 set of gaskets and my truck is running like nothing ever happened. I couldn’t of saved $600+ without you. Thanks so much!

Written by:Randall423
Posted on:April 1, 2012 at 4:02 am

Thanks for the help!! I was able to do the repair in only 3 hours by myself. Saved $1000!!

Written by:baltirado
Posted on:April 16, 2012 at 2:13 am

Just took the manifold off tonight and had a bear of a time getting it out. ended up having to bend back by force the hoist hooks. Thanks for the post. This is just what I needed. The posts on yotatech and tundra solutions were good, however, lacked the detailed steps you have provided here.
On another note, is there anything else I should/could take care of while I have this manifold off? I just thought I would do everything I can since it took me a while to get to this point. Thanks again.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:April 16, 2012 at 3:06 am

Well, the starter is the big thing, of course. There’s the gaskets, but if the old ones are in good shape then you can reuse them. Perhaps replace the injector o-rings? There’s not too much to tinker on without pulling off the headers, but I don’t think you even want to go there. Just make sure that everything inside the intakes is clean and without debris before reassembling the manifold.

Written by:Scoop
Posted on:June 20, 2012 at 3:07 am

Mr. Someguy,

Could not believe it when I found out that the starter on my 2006 Tundra 4.7 was under the intake manifold. Unlike the other obvoius B.O. starter failure symptoms, my starter will start without fail when the vehicle/engine is cold. However, when it’s driven for a while and tuned off (engine hot). Nothing. Not a click. Nothing. Nada! Plenty of jucie from a new DIE HARD. After a few additional attemtps, or the engine cools off a little. It starts right up. Not sure if it’s the starter or not. Maybe a loose conection at the starter? Any thought?

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:June 27, 2012 at 6:21 am

You’ve crossed over into the realm of infinite possibilities.

Have someone turn the key when you’re listening under the hood. Can you hear any relay click? If so, then it might be something loose in the starter solenoid, since it’s right there getting hot from sitting in the engine.

Do the dash panel lights come on when you turn the key to ignition? If not, then it could be a faulty ignition switch.

I’d still investigate the starter or the starter relay, because they’re under the hood where they can get hot.

Keep in mind that I’m just pulling this out of my you-know-what, so don’t take it as gospel. It may be time for a visit to a sympathetic mechanic who can tell you what’s likely to be broken, then you can fix it yourself.

Written by:Jwkwildland
Posted on:July 31, 2012 at 2:24 am

This was (will be) very helpful had my starter replaced a few months ago and the guy was and is a sleezy… Still owe my dad for it. Was scared to do it myself until you inspired the more daring side of me. Let you know how it goes.

Written by:Shawn Utz
Posted on:August 6, 2012 at 7:20 pm

Thanks! Someguy. My Son and I got through this with only one problem. We accidently pulled the wire out of one of the knock sensor connectors on the top of the block. I should have disconnected them prior to R&R of the starter. I thought we were in big trouble. However, we were able to take the factory connector apart, strip the wire and solder it to the terminal and gently reassemble. A dental tool and patience was the trick. Thanks for the pics and tips!

Written by:Chris in NJ
Posted on:August 9, 2012 at 12:21 pm

Wow, what a great write up! I have an 04 and am about to tackle a P0330 knock sensor circuit malfunction. Looks like it will be an identical tear down to get to these troublesome sensors. any advice on a P0330? Email me!

Written by:JD
Posted on:August 28, 2012 at 3:26 am

Someguy,Just wanted to say thanks for the info on how to replace the starter on my 2001 Tundra. I just had my local mechinican replaced the ignition switch about a month ago. Now in the process of replacing starter. I well with the $71.00 high torque starter from O-Rileys. Truck has 182,000 miles on it. Hopefully after replacing starter I won’t have no more mechinical breakdowns for awhile. Thanks Again

Written by:Gary Mather
Posted on:September 5, 2012 at 7:18 pm

Just read Scoop’s question about his truck starting when cold but not when it is hot. My Dad’s truck (GMC) had the same problem a few years ago and it turned out that the Bendix gear was staying engaged after starting. This caused the starter bearings to heat up and sieze. The truck wouldn’t start until the starter had cooled off. Best bet is to have it rebuilt or as a last resort, get a new one. By the way, your info for getting to the starter is a lifesaver. I am helping my neighbor solve his intermittent starting problems. (2000 Tundra V-8)

Written by:randy
Posted on:September 20, 2012 at 7:30 pm

Great instructions. However. When i screwed the fuel rail on, I cross threaded it. it cought on fire from the fuel running down the top of the block to the starter. Now the other problem. I have a “sucking sound coming from somewher (i think it’s the plastic peace that the metal gasket sits in) not sure. Any thoughts or answers.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:September 20, 2012 at 11:32 pm

Ouch. Fire is not a good outcome. Hopefully you got it put out before too much damage. The sucking sound: I bet that sucking = vacuum leak somewhere. There’s still a hose disconnected somewhere, or there’s something leaking at the intake. Use a cheap stethoscope with the head cut off and move the tube around until you definitely locate the source of the sound.

Written by:Ben
Posted on:November 8, 2012 at 8:05 pm

Can’t thank you enough for the step by step instructions and key advice. I was able to replace the starter by myself (6+ hours). The only problem I encountered was that my truck was miss-firing after it started on the first try. I replaced the plugs and did some trouble shooting with the help of AZ. The diagnostics pointed to #1 cylinder (miss-firing). Turned out to be the connector to the Fuel Injector was not properly plugged in. Should’ve checked EVERY connection like you recommended! THANKS AGAIN!

Written by:Ben
Posted on:November 8, 2012 at 8:08 pm

My next job is to replace the radiator… Seems so much easier after tackling the starter.

Written by:someguyinbaja
Posted on:November 17, 2012 at 1:58 am

Man, I gotta tell you. You are a LIFESAVER! I live in Southern Baja, Mexico…where the mechanics fix one problem and make 2 more for you. So I was a little hesitant to take it to a mechanic. (Toyota dealership quoted me over 2000 pesos-a little over $150-to do the work here) But after seeing your work, I thought I could tackle it. So after ordering a remanufactured Denso from dealership in the states and some new gaskets, I am up and running again! Took almost 7 hours including an oil change. But I wasn’t in a rush. Plus, had others “issues” happening during the day. So I was very happy with the outcome. And it wasn’t the second bolt on the starter that gave me trouble, it was the nut holding the wire harness! Crazy, right?!? I just used a deep socket on both starter bolts and they came out just fine. But that wire harness bolt fought with me taking it out and putting it back. I was a little worried with the dirt that fell into the valve chamber (Baja=dirt). Tried to vacuum as much as I could. But the valve chamber was d-i-r-t-y. Lots of carbon build up. Don’t know how to deal with that yet. Just happy to be running again. Thanks a million!

Written by:mikew
Posted on:November 19, 2012 at 1:17 am

Very clear instructions. Found it after following the Hayes manual and getting stuck. They have you remove the injectors and throttle body completely. 5 hours following their instructions, and the intake wasn’t off yet. About an hour after reading your instructions, intake was off, new starter was in, now I’m waiting on o-rings. Thanks for taking the effort to document this.

Written by:Lexxium
Posted on:January 14, 2013 at 2:14 am

Thank you for this fantastic write up!!!!
It will definately save me some cash doing it myself not to mention enjoyment it brings me wrenching on my ride, and not to let any mechanic touch my steel :)
Thanks again

God Bless!!!

Written by:Chris O
Posted on:January 26, 2013 at 1:08 am

Just want to add another thanks to the list. Me and my friend did it it about 4 1/2 hrs thanks to your how to. The magnet definitely came in handy, except for when the pulsator washer fell under the battery box…though it did confirm that the washer is stainless steel. Only word of caution is to not tighten the bolt for the wiring harness on the passenger side fuel rail too tight, it will break off. Thanks again.

Chris in Hidden Valley Lake, CA

Written by:Roger in Ca.
Posted on:January 28, 2013 at 8:42 am

Like the many other comments and praise left here for you, someguy, I am thankful for the time and effort you went through to post all the information and pictures for this God forsaken procedure to replace a tundra starter. I was inquiring some time ago about the price of a tundra starter(mine had intermittent clicking) and the location of it because I couldn’t see it anywhere while I’m underneath the truck,and another worker over heard the conversation and mentioned “it’s inside the engine”. Well I really didn’t think I’ll be doing this, I just hope it last a little longer. Well, a little longer quickly became the here and now! Stopped in Winco Foods for a maximum of 10 minutes,got back in the truck…click! Tried by passing the security system because it had worked before, but not this time(more on the security system shortly) just clicked.Tried several times, but ended up walking 5 miles home with my computer under my arm.
Had to have it towed for the first time since I bought it new in 2000.It has about 320,000 on it with no major problems. Ordered the new starter the next day along with new gaskets,and I must say I was a bit worried about the undertaking. But as I got into it I just followed your directions. You had it layed out with pictures step by step… I had it completed before dark and boy was I glad to have it done. I also double and triple checked hoses,electrical,connections,as you suggested…all seemed complete.
So I get in turn the key …nothing!
No click…nothing! Tried again…not even a small click! I was bummed!…what did I forget to connect?…..then it came to me!! It dawned on me because I’ve had some issues with the security system, that it has to be it…and I know how to by pass it. Looked at my son who had helped me all day with this and I said “you watch, the truck thinks it’s being stolen and won’t start,so I’ll by pass the security system and it will start”… IT DID! Fired right up! Glad it’s done! Thanks again someguy! This really helped and saved me a bunch to get this done!
Roger D. in Ca.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:January 28, 2013 at 8:14 pm

Glad it worked for you, Roger! I must admit, one of my most satisfying days with my truck was when I went under the hood and tore out the wiring for the security system.

Written by:Veto
Posted on:February 18, 2013 at 7:58 pm

First off Thanks for all the info. This article helped a lot. My son and I tackled the job over the weekend. Took me much longer about 9 hours.
The story
When my original starter went out in 2008 I had a well know Japanese auto shop replace the starter for 900.00.Then in Feb this year the starter started the click BS no engage again. After replacing the battery Starter relay I knew the starter was the issue after less than five years. The second 2.kw starter was a rebuilt Denso from the dealer. The dealer does not sell new starters for a 2002 Tundra.
So I bought a new 2.kw one from AZ I did not want to go with another Rebuilt Denso after reading the do not uses quality parts when rebuilding the starters (contacts and plunger) I can’t find much about these new starters from AZ hopefully it will last longer.

when removing the fuel injector connectors I used a pair of long nose locking pliers. Insert a small flat tip screw driver in the tab of the connector lock the pliers on the top flat part of the connector the pull gently.

Written by:Travis K
Posted on:April 13, 2013 at 8:05 pm

I just finished replacing the starter contacts on my 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser using this guide. Thank you.

A couple of tips:

I had to use a ratchet knuckle on the driver’s side starter bolt. What a pain.

I laid a few boards across the hood to hold myself over the engine so I could reach the starter bolts.

I used the “Victory Lap ND-36SOL Solenoid Repair Kit” to replace the contacts in my starter. It was $14 on Amazon.

It took me about 6 hours to finish.

Written by:Travis K
Posted on:April 13, 2013 at 8:10 pm

Also, I took the starter to Autozone after I replaced the contacts so that they could test it.

I really wanted to make sure it worked before I put everything back together.

Written by:Grand County, CO
Posted on:May 4, 2013 at 12:57 pm

It’s been a few years since you posted this, but it is still the best and only visual aid for this project. You have just saved me 1,000 bucks and I really appreciate it! It ended up taking me 6 hours, but really wasn’t to bad in the long run. If i wasn’t timid at first and taken a lot of precautions it could have gone quicker. Toyota should give you a job putting up blogs and videos on how to master there stupid ass engineering. These cars run great, but they still would even if the starter took two bolts to replace. Anyways, you are very much appreciated and thanks for taking the extra time to take all those pictures and write out all the steps to make our lives a bit cheaper!

Written by:Tundra guy
Posted on:July 6, 2013 at 5:58 pm

This job went well thanks to you! I did come up with a way to save your back on this job. I put padding on the fenders, then placed a 2×10 across the engine compartment. Much easier to lay on the 2×10 when working on the back of the engine. I also used 8 inch concrete blocks to stand on. Thank you!

Written by:Tony Texas
Posted on:July 7, 2013 at 2:25 pm

I have had to take off the intake manifold twice now and the first time I followed your instructions most of the way. (I didnt all the way so I learn a little more on my own.) ANYWAY, The trick I found for the starter mounting bolts was taking a deep socket 14mm to break it loose. To retighten I got the bolts set and hand tighten as much as possible then that deep socket fits right it.

To Help Visualize: (As you look at the starter from the front of the vehicle) for the left side feed your wrench from the left. Feed from behind and under the starter and you should get a decent ratchet range of motion because of the space the deep socket creates. For the right mounting bolt its a little more tricky. Feed the wrench from right. behind and under again BUT after you get it in the area feed the bottom of your wrench up behind the wiring harness. (the one currently doing a GREAT JOB at blocking your view) you again get a decent range of motion and should be able to get your torques down.

NOTE: my hands are kind of on the medium to small in size so if you can feed the bottom end of your wrench up GREAT! If you can’t you should still get some motion from the initial bottom and behind feed just not as much and more things in your way to bend, break or other.

Hope that helps.

Written by:Teo
Posted on:July 7, 2013 at 4:37 pm

Someguy. May you win a huge jackpot and if not, may the president of Toyota lose his yearly bonus which he just cashed and may you find it.( but being the great person that you are, you would probably return it) This world is sure a better place with people like you and Miss Fish.

Thank you.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:July 7, 2013 at 8:03 pm

Tony– Thanks for the tip. That’s pretty much what we wound up doing. Toyota gives a torque spec for those starter bolts, but they made it about impossible to get a torque wrench in there.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:July 7, 2013 at 8:04 pm

I could sure use that bonus!

Written by:Mike
Posted on:July 17, 2013 at 4:38 pm

Very helpful advice and pictures, you’re right the caps on the injectors are buggers to get off. everything went smoothly. Thanks lot for the info.

Written by:steve
Posted on:July 23, 2013 at 4:51 am

Extremely helpful. thank you for your descriptive narrative. if it wasn’t for you I would not have attempted this job. got it done and it took about 3 hours. 1 of the hours was just to get started. thanks you.

Written by:Dean
Posted on:August 4, 2013 at 11:40 pm

I followed your steps and it worked perfectly. A great bonding opportunity with my son. He now knows how to use a torque wrench.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

Written by:jon
Posted on:August 14, 2013 at 10:30 pm

New starter not in yet, but old one coming out. Saved lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Thanks for the tips and your time!!!!!

Written by:TNguy
Posted on:September 6, 2013 at 5:31 am

You Are My Hero. You Saved Me LoTs Of Money And Good Knows I Could Not Have Done It WithOut The Detailed Directions And Pictures! Thanks Again!

Written by:Gunner
Posted on:September 17, 2013 at 2:48 am

This was very informative. I have replaced my 2000 Tundra starter 3 times since 2010 when the original factory starter went out. I bought a replacement starter (a rebuilt one) from Autozone. After taking 2 back in 3 years (I paid for the lifetime warrented part) I decided for an upgraded starter. The original factory starter is made by Denso and the local Autozone gave me the Delco HD starter 2.0khz starter and also Handed me cash back as the 1.4 original replacement starter is MORE money than the HD starter….Strange! My only advice is to buy the original Denso or a Delco starter….Spend the extra $ to find a denso as you only want to do this 1 time. It took me 4 hrs the last time I changed this simple part. Good luck and follow these great instructions

Written by:HB
Posted on:October 17, 2013 at 2:36 am

Someguy you are the greatest! your descriptions and pics are the best. what helped me the most was your assurance that your everyday job was something other than a mechanic. It took me 2.5 to get it out and 1.5 to put it back. I can’t believe how much $ you saved me. Thank you!

Written by:Joe (Oklahoma)
Posted on:October 18, 2013 at 11:32 am

You are Some Guy, thanks so much for the good instructions. I would have never attempted this without it. I changed the starter on my 2002 tundra in less than 4 hrs. The dealership wanted $750. My total cost was $87.00 and a few skinned knuckles. I used my old gaskets because they appeared to be in good shape. Thanks so much, you should be commended!!
semper fi

Written by:Brando
Posted on:October 22, 2013 at 8:24 pm

I recently used your tutorial on intake manifold removal to replace my Secondary Air Pump on my 05 Tundra 4.7 Its basically the same, Thank you for the help!!!
I shared a link to this page here:

Written by:Tony
Posted on:October 23, 2013 at 3:06 am

I have removed all the parts to reach the starter. I have removed the 2 long 14mm bolts that hold the starter in place and the small 12mm bolt that goes into the plastic yellow casing. I have disconnected the ground cable and the blue connector from the starter. But my starter will not come out. I tried hitting with a piece of wood thinking maybe it was glued by the grease and engine gunk and nothing.
Is there a special way of removing the starter once all the bolts are removed? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:October 23, 2013 at 7:38 am

Is there any play at all? Try jiggling it with a slight side-to-side twisting motion while pulling.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:October 23, 2013 at 7:45 am

Thanks for the shout out! Nice writeup yourself, BTW.

Written by:Tony
Posted on:October 23, 2013 at 10:07 pm

no wiggle room at all or gives no play.
A friend told me that maybe the solenoid might be stuck in the flywheel. Now What?

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:October 25, 2013 at 6:52 am

Once you unbolt the starter, you should be able to rotate it a little bit counterclockwise before removal. The starter bendix could be stuck, leaving the starter meshed with the flywheel. As you know, I’m not a mechanic, so I’d say a second opinion is in order before you attack it with a crowbar. There may be a trick to it that I don’t know.

Written by:Tony
Posted on:October 26, 2013 at 10:08 pm

i don’t see anything else that could be holding the starter in place. Everything is disconnected and all bolts are removed. After jamming a crowbar in between the starter and the piece that it is screwed into, I have managed to get it out about 1/4 of an inch out. But boy, is it ever stuck in there! I just don’t want to break anything by using excessive force. Any thoughts?

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:October 26, 2013 at 11:10 pm

Don’t break your truck! Get a second opinion from a skilled mechanic!

Wow. Breaking something is the worry. It shouldn’t take a crowbar to pull off the starter; it should just wiggle loose by hand. You don’t want to damage the flywheel or snap off a part that falls down into the depths. Replacing a broken flywheel is the *last* thing you want to do on this job. If there’s a local shop that you trust, stroll in and ask for an opinion on what to do, or maybe the mechanic at the Toyota dealer can be helpful (our local Toyota dealer…not so much). I’ve found that the old guys at the local auto parts store can be a wealth of knowledge.

Written by:Marc B
Posted on:December 20, 2013 at 1:35 pm

i was looking to understand about the intake manifold on my 2003 Tundra,i end up to this terrific how to replace the stater. I was amazed by the clarification on the step by step information. Thank you so much for your time and efforts to put this thing together. Now i believe i have the knowledge to replace the stater in my truck if it needed.

Written by:Scott
Posted on:January 20, 2014 at 4:19 am

My mechanic gave me a quote $800 yesterday. I did some research and found your article. Decided to do it myself. Thanks to your thorough and descriptive instructions, my truck started right up. Thanks so much! I owe you one man. The most difficult step for me was removing the starter, but I finally got it out.

Written by:Richard
Posted on:January 23, 2014 at 4:13 am

Add me to the list of satisfied customers. My truck started “clicking” months ago, and today it finally gave up. Took about four hours to do it. I had to remove and replace the manifold by myself, so it can be done. Also, instead of unbolting the throttle cable, it’s much easier to just slide the end out.

Written by:tony
Posted on:January 24, 2014 at 6:48 pm

this post was great but i need to know what the bar goinging from one side of the block to the other is,i need a gasket for it,its the bar that the starter wire harness gos under,it is leaking water

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:January 25, 2014 at 5:10 am

Tony – Not sure what it’s called. Feel free to print out the picture of the starter that also has the transverse pipe in the picture. Then you can take the photo down to the parts window at the dealer and tell them the VIN number and that you need gaskets for the part in the picture.

Written by:Mike
Posted on:February 22, 2014 at 9:17 pm

Some Guy you are the Man!
My Tundra had the solenoid stuck and engaged turning the motor over even with the keys out . I pulled the Neg battery cable and the truck shut off.
Your instruction’s were Excellent!
Easy to follow and precise .You were right the hardest thing on this Job was removing and reinstalling the starter screw’s .I managed to disassemble and reinstall the starter including replacing all the injector O-rings in 5hr’s. Toyota wanted $1000.00 for the job . I’m glad I found your site the new starter from AutoZone and new washers a gaskets cost me around $260.00 . You saved me over $700.00 bucks
I cannot Thank You Enough Mr. Someguy.
Mikey in Corona ,Ca

Written by:Mike
Posted on:February 22, 2014 at 9:21 pm

Some Guy you are the Man!
My Tundra had the solenoid stuck and engaged turning the motor over even with the keys out . I pulled the Neg battery cable and the truck shut off.
Your instruction’s were Excellent!
Easy to follow and precise .You were right the hardest thing on this Job was removing and reinstalling the starter screw’s .I managed to disassemble and reinstall the starter including replacing all the injector O-rings in 5hr’s. Toyota wanted $1000.00 for the job . I’m glad I found your site the new starter from AutoZone and new washers and gaskets cost me around $260.00 . You saved me over $700.00 bucks
I cannot Thank You Enough Mr. Someguy.
Mikey in Corona ,Ca

Written by:Trevor
Posted on:March 23, 2014 at 2:51 pm

Someguy. Just wanted to say thanks, for taking the time to post this excellent page on how to replace the starter. It took me about 7 hours to complete, I ended up accidentally breaking off the plastic cap that covers the positive terminal post on the starter. Other than that, it went pretty smooth.

2006 Toyota Tundra, 167000 miles
Ontario, Canada.

Thanks again, Trevor

Written by:lenchast
Posted on:March 24, 2014 at 1:17 pm

I have worked on a vast number of vehicles and absolutely find this to be one of the best instructional posts I have ever seen. My neighbor came over to borrow an extension for his ratchet and got me involved a little bit in helping with his Tundra starter removal I saw he was looking at your post on his laptop. After getting back home I found your page and am amazed at the quality of instructions you presented.

Written by:David
Posted on:March 24, 2014 at 11:32 pm

I have replaced the starter on my 2000 tundra now my truck idles very low

Written by:David
Posted on:March 24, 2014 at 11:37 pm

Also my 2000 tundra won.t start very easy frist thing I have to crank it for awhile before it will start but after it starts in runs fine but idles is low

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:March 25, 2014 at 12:27 am

Cheers, Lenchast! We’ll tip back a cold beer tonight in your honor.

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:March 25, 2014 at 12:32 am

David – The new starter cranks the engine even if the engine doesn’t fire up, yes? Then the new starter is good. If the engine ran OK before you changed the starter, go back under the hood and look for loose vacuum hoses that didn’t get reconnected–I would call a loose vacuum hose the prime suspect. It happened to us. Also check your electrical connectors, make sure they’re inserted all the way. Is the check engine light on or off?

Written by:David
Posted on:March 28, 2014 at 12:50 am

The check engine light is on because a guy helping pulled the wires out of the connector to the temp sensor. trying to find one no luck so far because it the plug on the wiring harness and nobody sells the plug. could this cause my cold start problem. after it starts it runs fine. thanks

Written by:Tucker K.
Posted on:March 30, 2014 at 8:35 pm

Just wanted to thank you for the Tundra starter replacement page…

I’m not a mechanic but can turn a wrench…. Following the steps on the page I was able to pull off the intake manifold and swap the starter with no problems.

Truck started on the first try… Only issue was a little fuel spraying from the “top hat widget”… Just required a few more turns of tge wrench and it was all good.

Written by:David
Posted on:March 31, 2014 at 11:08 am

My problem with starting is fixed , it was all caused by the temp sensor plug not making connection. I also im having a problem with my push button 4 wheel drive 4 high will kick in when pushed , but 4 low dosen’t work what should I check.

Written by:Cheesehead
Posted on:April 9, 2014 at 9:34 pm

Thanks Someguy, your instructions were flawless!
My 2000 Tundra’s starter was beginning to act up, so 3 1/2 hours and less than $100 later (my brother-in-law owns a NAPA) it’s turning over like a champ. Living in northern Wisconsin I opted for the 2.0 KW starter.
They say you should never buy a vehicle during it’s first year of production but this one has dispelled that theory. With 412,879 miles and counting, the only repairs besides this starter and routine maintenance have been; timing belt & water pump, 2 ignition coils, one set of spark plugs and a new frame thanks to Toyota’s recall.
My Tundra and I thank you!

Written by:2000 Tundra, 211,000 miles
Posted on:April 13, 2014 at 12:56 pm

Thanks very much for putting in the effort to do this. Much more helpful than the Haynes manual. The job went smoothly from start to finish. It really wasn’t as difficult as it originally looked. Most important tool was magnetic pickup tool.
Another vote for a Denso starter, don’t skimp on this. It’s not a job you want to do twice. Local Toyota dealer had rebuilt Denso 2.0KW in stock for $263, only $30 more than Advance Auto Parts, and theirs needed at least 4 days to ship. Cost (after core return) with pair of genuine Toyota intake gaskets and throttle body gasket was $400.
And speaking of the throttle body, be sure to spray the inside of it with carb cleaner upon re-assembly. Also a great time to change air filter if needed.

Written by:Tom 02 tundra 4wd 233000 miles
Posted on:April 17, 2014 at 1:39 am

Amazing work, you should charge for this wealth of information. The starter bolts up against the firewall were tough as you sitting inside your engine compartment. The hardest part I had was taking off the fuel injector clips that took most of my time also. From start to finish(with a cold beer) 4 hours. Saved myself $1,000 minimum. Starter was $99 from autozone with lifetime warranty. The detail was great not. Single skipped step, and the magnetic pen yeah you’ll for sure need that!

Thanks again #itsayotalife

Written by:Bert
Posted on:April 30, 2014 at 12:18 pm

Thank you very much for posting this. It helped me continue the process. I had it all torn down except for the intake. I wasn’t sure how to get the fuel pulsater off. The only thing I did do different was take the coolant line off the rear to unbolt the starter. I have large hands and got tired of fighting the small space. My starter comes in today I will post back and let you know the finale outcome of the project. Thanks for your post.

Written by:Josh
Posted on:May 6, 2014 at 10:18 pm

Thanks guy from Nevada. 79$ and your awesome instructions and we are back on the road. 1200$ from my local Toyota dealer. Oh and a magnet thingy. Thanks for taking the time to do that.

Written by:Ernie
Posted on:May 8, 2014 at 5:26 am

Many thanx. Spent $8 to replace contacts in the starter and the piece that makes contact to start the truck. You know that thing a majiggy. Haha. Thanx again!

Written by:Amanda
Posted on:June 10, 2014 at 6:12 am

Thank you so much for this awesome how to on fixing the starter. I have a 2003 Toyota 4 runner and the starter died. I tried everything- calling autozone for help, looking at Toyota manuals, google, you tube, Toyota sites and NOTHING prepared me for what I was about to endure. I am by no means a mechanic or anything close to one. I used the tools I have (wish I had more!) and was able to complete this repair in 12 hours. I dropped a few tools down the drive shaft and had to slide under the car three times to retrieve them. I spilled a little radiator fluid and some gasoline. I broke a few electrical clips :( I also made a few mistakes- like taking the manifold apart when I didn’t have to (bad advice from another person with an older model) but in the end, I did it and the my truck started up like it was brand new!!! Your guide was amazing. I wish I had found it and used it from the beginning, instead of coming across is through google when I was already 3 hours in and stumped. I loved how I could select your pictures and they would load as a larger image. Your step by step instruction, including labels on your pictures and which size tool I would need was very helpful. I can’t thank you enough for posting this and for keeping it posted so I could find it today! A million thanks!!!!!

Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:June 10, 2014 at 6:34 pm

Glad you stuck it out, and happy to hear that this guide worked for you. Cheers!

Written by:Paul in FW Texas
Posted on:June 18, 2014 at 1:46 pm

Someguy and missfish, thank you so much for this info. I think I pulled a few muscles doing the project but the sanity stayed intact thanks to you. I bought my 2000 Tundra used and it had a K&N air filter system so a little was different but not much (just take pictures for reassemble.) I did curse the late 1990’s design crew of toyota a few times. But it all worked out just fine. No lights or leaks. First turn of the key. It took about 5 hours to do by myself but I also cleaned the intake manifold inside each pathway. It had some nice build up. Hoping to get a little better mileage and performance. Take Care and God Bless. – Paul

Written by:Ken
Posted on:June 21, 2014 at 5:20 pm

Thanks for visuals and explanations of how to do this what looks like a very challenging job unless one has done a few. I just purchased a used 2005 Tundra SR5 with only 83,000 miles. I was going to do the timing belt but decided to take off the right side (from sitting in the truck) timing cover. It was very easy to remove. I rotated the engine with a wrench and inspected the belt. It didn’t have any signs of “Fraying” or miss alignment and so I decided not to do it at this time. I know Toyota recommends changing at 90,000 or 7 years. Mine is over the years but I’ve read where some have gone over 120,000 to 140,000 miles and still looked not bad. The tensioner bearings and water pump could be a problem, however, if you see the coolant lever going down and don’t see any leaks, could be a head gasket, not common on this engine. Anyways, just thought I would throw in these comments for educational conversation. Thanks for the Starter information. Hopefully, I will not have to do that one for a long time, however, I will bookmark your site for the starter. If you have any comments/photos about changing a timing belt on that engine (4.7) please send them..Sincerely, Ken from Henderson NV. adjacent to Las Vegas NV.

Written by:Gregg Miller
Posted on:July 7, 2014 at 4:26 am

Excellent, excellent instructions, the best that I have found for any mechanical procedure. Things that helped me 1) the detailed photographs, 2) labeling every hose and fitting (made it easy to put the spaghetti back in place), 3) identifying each bolt size.

One thing I learned that might help others is to place pillows and padding in all the locations that your knees and other body parts have to bear weight.

Also, once I had the rebuilt starter in place and hooked up, I took out the fuel pump fuse, hooked up the battery and tested the starter. I did not want to put everything together and then find out that the starter didn’t work. Others may or may not want to do this.

Probably took me 6 hours spread over the 3-day holiday. My truck was parked in the afternoon sun and it was about 90F. I was leisurely and methodical so that I did not make a mistake.

SomeGuy in Nevada, if you are in the SF Bay area you are welcome at my place in Concord.


Written by:Some Guy
Posted on:July 8, 2014 at 12:59 am

Testing the starter before reassembly is a good idea.

Thanks! Concord is a good place…close enough to the Bay Area, yet far enough away from the Bay Area.

Written by:tundraguy
Posted on:July 13, 2014 at 9:39 pm

Thank you sir for this thread. This is my first Toyota, while lying under the 03 Tundra changing O2 sensors I said to my self, self where the heck is the starter. Thanks very much for solving that mystery for me. Cheery sir.

Written by:David in TX
Posted on:July 20, 2014 at 7:10 pm

2002 toyota sequoia, replacing starter….it it ok to us the electrical connector that attaches to the starter if the clip that locks it in place broke off, or is it best to replace the wires, if so, what is it called?

Written by:David M.
Posted on:August 3, 2014 at 12:29 pm

We did it, thanks to you! We worked on Friday for about 4hrs removing everything. I had already read your post, so I knew it was a big job. My son went to the parts store, while a friend and I tore everything down. Getting the old started out was a lot harder than I thought. We removed the bolts, but the cable connectors were almost impossible to unlock without snapping them. I was forced to super glue two back together. We used two huge flat blade screwdrivers and a mallet to get the old one out. That gray connection box on the right side was too difficult and I ended up cutting away a piece to get the nut off the starter’s power cord.
From that point , my helper who is a young mechanic, did an awesome job following your instructions and reattaching everything. It was great having the ability to go back and read through disassembly again to reattach each vacuum and fuel line. Oh God, that was a lot of work!

My 2001 Toyota Tundra has a new, better starter!

Thanks again,

Written by:Chipilon
Posted on:August 6, 2014 at 4:53 am

Thanks very helpful, in my case I will not be changing the starter I had a professional do that and lots of money spent, but I now have to replace the knock sensors which they are located in the same spot. This procedure will defenetly help me get the job done and save some money. I thank you again for your knowledge.

Written by:Sharky
Posted on:August 26, 2014 at 4:55 pm

Thanks for the Tutorial: What would we do without the internet. Completed this job last night. Took me 4 hours.

Tip: Removing the Blue Fuel Injector connectors: Wedge a small flat head screw driver into the clip for easy removal. They slide right off. (I also had the same rat/mouse problem, How in the world do they find these places?)

Written by:Guy from Oregon
Posted on:September 6, 2014 at 6:19 pm

This is the second time I have done this. Fortunately the starter I bought is under lifetime warranty. Took it to the shop this time thinking maybe it is something else, “How could it be the starter again, it was only two years ago I replaced it.” I figured I could part with the cash at least for a diagnostic. It was the starter again. When it came down to it, I thought, “I have done this before, I would like to keep $950, for myself, I will do it again.”
Second time it was twice as fast. Got to the starter in about 2 hours this time.
Oh and I to, had a nest in mine the first time. They sure love that spot eh.

Oh… And this tutorial is awesome. I even referenced it again the second time, even though I knew most of it. It is nice to know for sure what socket size, as opposed to guessing and trying to make the second one you tried fit for 10 minutes, before realizing the first on was the right size.


Written by:blaise
Posted on:September 7, 2014 at 12:13 am

Thanks. Great instructions. I owe you a beer. Or two…

Written by:Pete
Posted on:October 11, 2014 at 3:34 am

Just started it today. Doesn’t seem like to big a job. Gotta get a 22mm wrench for the fuel line and I’ll be ready to pull the manifold (with my wife’s help). Just had the starter replaced 3 years ago by the stealership and it’s already dead. I decided instead of giving them a $1000 i’ll do it myself for under $300. I’m thinking about getting my fuel injectors cleaned while I’m in it

Written by:Pete
Posted on:October 12, 2014 at 12:18 am

Got the manifold out. Lifted out pretty easily, had my Mrs fish give me a hand. I’m pulling my fuel injectors while I’m in there, 150,000 on them. Local guy cleans them here in Sacramento. Just took the fuel rail off the manifold and pulled the injectors out of the rail. Amazing how the only bolts I have laying around are the ones for the manifold (6 bolts, 4 nuts)everything else I just put back were ever I took it out of. I was wondering that instead of undoing the fuel line and having to mess with the washers, just undo the rubber fuel line attached to the metal part of the fuel line, but while I was at the dealership the parts guy said he wasn’t sure if that was glued in some way and i may not be able to seal it again as well, so i just undid the fuel line. Overall, there isn’t anything I would change in your write-up. It really isn’t that difficult of a job, and it makes us all more confident. Oh I’m gonna clean-out my throttle body while its off, you can never get them clean enough with a rag and a tooth brush. Thanks again Some Guy and Fish woman, you’ve made us all better mechanics

Written by:Pete
Posted on:October 17, 2014 at 3:16 am

Pulled out one of the wires to the knock sensors by accident. long story short had to buy the whole wiring harness (used) for $200. Was just gonna solder the wire back on to the connector but something else broke inside the connector and when pushed back on the wire/connector pushed back out. Then in taking off the other knock sensor connector the tab broke so the connector wouldn’t stay on.. Im sure I could have taped the heck out of it but who knows how long that would have lasted and maybe vibrated it self loose. So two connectors cost me $200. Undoing them you run the risk of breaking the tab. The point I guess is be extremely careful around those connectors. Glad I pulled my injectors and had them cleaned, guy said they were pretty dirty. Cost me $168 bucks but it beats $1600 for new ones. Cleaned my fuel rails with throttle body cleaner and put it all back together. Started on the second try. Runs much smoother and quieter. And having that magnetic catching tool was a life saver. One of the sockets fell down in the whole were the starter is and wasn’t getting that out without it and I used it to guide the manifold bolts down into there holes.

Written by:MetroMan
Posted on:October 28, 2014 at 10:14 pm

I just finished repairing a wire to a knock sensor by following your instructions. I cannot thank you enough. It was an easy fix. Without your detailed instructions and photos I don’t believe I would have attempted it.

For those that have a knock sensor wire chewed by a rodent and need a new plug with some wire on it to splice into the existing wire and don’t want to spend a good sum of money on a complete wiring harness that Toyota sells, buy Toyota Part No. 82219-35010. This will give you the plug you need and a few inches of wire. Cut off the other plug that comes with it as it is not needed. This piece cost under $20.

Again…. many thanks.

Written by:Troy
Posted on:October 29, 2014 at 3:40 pm

the instructions were great including the pictures. The comments from everyone who has done this gave me courage to tackle it myself. I have a 2006 Tundra, some changes were made but the process was pretty much the same it’s a little harder working to get the starter out because the manufacture and put throttle right next to the starter. There is also some coolant pipes you need to work around. Thanks Bro.

Written by:samram
Posted on:October 31, 2014 at 6:47 pm

What an awesome service to mankind! Add my comment to the host of others who have found this exceptional instruction invaluable! All went well except for bumping a wire out of the passenger side knock sensor when removing the starter. Had to pull the lug apart and solder the wire to the connector while laying on a pad on the front of the engine. Other than that, no worries. Thanks for taking the time to put this out! You’re a good man Mr. Someguy!

Written by:Joel
Posted on:November 2, 2014 at 2:02 pm

Thanks so much for your detailed instructions . I had to do my 2000 tundra with 350k in it yesterday. $101.00 for starter from Napa. Reuse gaskets. Took about 4.5 hrs for mine .I removed hood 1 st thing to make easier.I have fair to good experience working on engines being a country boy from Alabama. Thanks again. Your write up saved me probably 2-3 hrs and 450.00.

Written by:John
Posted on:November 3, 2014 at 8:25 pm

The starter on my 2001 Tundra V8 just went out at 169k miles. The garage called me and quoted $800 to replace with an OEM starter. I read over the warnings in the first part of your instructions. I’m now 66 yrs old and don’t have the patience nor the desire to tackle this like I once did when I was younger. I’ll bite the bullet and pay for someone else to do it.
However, my hat’s off to you, sir! What an impressive set of detailed instructions. Thanks for the time and energy you channeled into documenting and sharing this step-by-step list with accompanying pics. You made it alot easier for the do-it-yourselfer who wants to dive into this project. Great job!!

Written by:Jerimy
Posted on:November 7, 2014 at 1:59 pm

Thanks a ton, job was slick and easy thanks to the picks. Ran a bit rough at first and check engine light came on. I had to hold the gas in to keep at an idle, only for a minute. The next day, I drove it about 5 miles. Engine light went off and it runs like a champ. Not sure what it was. The VSC lights came on too. Maybe rebuilding fuel pressure as I felt it was a good idea to release pressure by taking of the gas cap. A job well done thanks to this post!

Written by:SL
Posted on:November 12, 2014 at 12:14 am

Thanks much Some Guy; your work here makes this ludicrous process somewhat more bearable. I’ve replaced a couple starters on a tractor, 99 4Runner, and 85 Ford F350 before – which has always been a very simple job, not even a distant cousin to this mess. Couldn’t stand to fork out a grand for the whole job, but I ended up having the original starter serviced (plunger, contacts and test) for about $50 – the sum total of my bill for this project. No broken or leaking o-rings on my project and did not replace any of the gaskets, which all appeared to be fine. Took me right around 4 hours labor, bruised palm (but no knuckles) and 3 glasses of reasonably good bourbon to finish the task. Now off to celebrate with some better bourbon, now that the job is done and I can fully enjoy. Best to you and thanks again.

Written by:Susan
Posted on:December 14, 2014 at 2:53 am

Thanks for the info and excellant tips. My 2000 cranked right up and made me proud. 279,000 milles safe and sound. It was a pleasure to reboot the truck that has taken such good care of me. Thank-you and Missfish!

Written by:Jerm Brem
Posted on:December 28, 2014 at 11:44 pm

Someguy. Like many of the people in this thread I googled how to replace a Tundra starter due to the fact that I couldn’t find it! That is the last place I would have expected it to be. I am a lineman by trade and mechanically inclined so to not be able to even locate the starter when I was broke down was down right maddening. Im located in the Bay Area like Gregg and the dealerships want close to 400.00 for the new one and 1200.00 more for the labor. Crazy talk.! Thanks for your awesome, detailed instructions. Thanks to your time and effort to post this Santa was able to make it to my house!!

Written by:rsmadill
Posted on:January 20, 2015 at 7:09 pm

Hi, did the starter change last night. It took me 5 hours to finish. Your guide helped alot. I found that the things you said would give me trouble did not but other things sure did. The blue plugs came out easy but had a hell of a time with the starter wire nut. Did not have to replace the o-rings or gaskets. Thanks for your help.I might of been faster if i had not done the work by flashlight. You have to work with the time and stuff you have. For me it was working at night.

Written by:Lenny
Posted on:February 1, 2015 at 4:22 pm

I removed my starter & had it rebuilt
you instructions were a great help.
This is on a 2003 Tundra 4.7 .My battery
is still going dead ,had the battery
checked at auto zone its ok .Whats the
possibility of the ignition switch is
bad & how do you remove it .This truck
only has 62,000 miles
Thank you for any help

Written by:et
Posted on:February 2, 2015 at 4:56 am

thanks for your post saved a bunch doing it myself dont think i coud have done it without your guide thanks agin

Written by:Safety
Posted on:March 27, 2015 at 5:47 pm

Trying this procedure tomorrow. Will follow all your guidelines. Will let you know the outcome.

Written by:TNT
Posted on:May 1, 2015 at 3:37 pm

TNT I have a 2008 4.7 tundra starter problem. I followed the procedure here (great instructions) but I had a bolt through the wire harness on the back right side of the intake manifold that had me stumped a little. Took the camera phone took a pic behind the intake where you can’t feel let alone see. After reviewing pic saw the bolt☆.Removed the intake manifold right off. Also I removed the cooling water cross over to get the starter bolts easier. I lost a little antifreeze but well worth it. You can see one bolt and touch the other. Great write up. Saved me a bunch of money. Thanks for sharing. I would love to talk to toyota’s engineering about this. $!!%@. Hope this may help.

Written by:Steven Barber
Posted on:May 10, 2015 at 5:10 am

This was very helpful. Thanks so much. Steven Barber

Written by:FabDoc
Posted on:May 10, 2015 at 7:12 pm

One thing missed was that it’s a good idea, before disconnecting any fuel lines, to at least momentarily open the gas tank cap to relieve any built up pressure in the fuel system. This is especially true in warmer climates. Voice of experience….

Otherwise, this is by far the best guide for Tundra starter R & R I’ve seen. Many thanks!!

Written by:ricco
Posted on:May 21, 2015 at 9:04 pm

Thank you very much for the walk thru. Greatly appreciated

Written by:Robert
Posted on:June 7, 2015 at 12:49 am

This was a very nice tutorial w/ the pictures. Really let me know where those pesky starter bolts where located.

Thank you

Written by:andrew
Posted on:June 11, 2015 at 8:11 am

I just wanted to say thank you for posting this.saved me a lot of grief.

Written by:Jon Ekvall
Posted on:August 14, 2015 at 2:46 pm

Excellent write-up! Thank you!

Written by:Colts fan
Posted on:August 31, 2015 at 1:37 am

Some guy,
I just wanted to say thank you for this excellent post, this was very helpful and well documented. I had the same problem as Randy (comment 51) with the sucking sound. It turned out to be four small metal rings that were included in the new gaskets I bought at AZ once the metal rings were removed it starts and runs perfect again. Thank you very much!

Written by:Brian
Posted on:September 10, 2015 at 6:38 pm

Great write up as many have said. My 2002 Tundra is having starter problems. Sometimes when I turn the key, the starter doesn’t go. If I hold the key turned, it will eventually start, but if I let go of the key it won’t start. I assume it is a solenoid so I will be pulling the starter for a full rebuild.

So I have a question on step 12. I have the alldata procedure and they do not indicate the removing the fuel line at this point. Is the 2002 different from the 2001 in this case? I guess I’ll find out when I get in there, but I hope someone can comment before that.

Thanks, Brian

Written by:Tsquared
Posted on:September 23, 2015 at 12:18 am

I have been living with the “click” for over 3 years. It always eventually started but I knew this was in my future. I ran into problems getting the bolts off the back of the engine. I have large hands. I ended up taking the wiring harness loose to give me a little extra room at the back of the block. I went with the O’rieley rebuilt for $69 out the door. My other “gotcha” was my latch on my airbox broke – A trip to the dealer…

Good job on the details for the procedure. You offered some good insight.