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Written by:rsmadill
Posted on:January 20, 2015 at 7:09 pm

Hi, did the starter change last night. It took me 5 hours to finish. Your guide helped alot. I found that the things you said would give me trouble did not but other things sure did. The blue plugs came out easy but had a hell of a time with the starter wire nut. Did not have to replace the o-rings or gaskets. Thanks for your help.I might of been faster if i had not done the work by flashlight. You have to work with the time and stuff you have. For me it was working at night.

Written by:Lenny
Posted on:February 1, 2015 at 4:22 pm

I removed my starter & had it rebuilt
you instructions were a great help.
This is on a 2003 Tundra 4.7 .My battery
is still going dead ,had the battery
checked at auto zone its ok .Whats the
possibility of the ignition switch is
bad & how do you remove it .This truck
only has 62,000 miles
Thank you for any help

Written by:et
Posted on:February 2, 2015 at 4:56 am

thanks for your post saved a bunch doing it myself dont think i coud have done it without your guide thanks agin

Written by:Safety
Posted on:March 27, 2015 at 5:47 pm

Trying this procedure tomorrow. Will follow all your guidelines. Will let you know the outcome.

Written by:TNT
Posted on:May 1, 2015 at 3:37 pm

TNT I have a 2008 4.7 tundra starter problem. I followed the procedure here (great instructions) but I had a bolt through the wire harness on the back right side of the intake manifold that had me stumped a little. Took the camera phone took a pic behind the intake where you can’t feel let alone see. After reviewing pic saw the bolt☆.Removed the intake manifold right off. Also I removed the cooling water cross over to get the starter bolts easier. I lost a little antifreeze but well worth it. You can see one bolt and touch the other. Great write up. Saved me a bunch of money. Thanks for sharing. I would love to talk to toyota’s engineering about this. $!!%@. Hope this may help.

Written by:Steven Barber
Posted on:May 10, 2015 at 5:10 am

This was very helpful. Thanks so much. Steven Barber

Written by:FabDoc
Posted on:May 10, 2015 at 7:12 pm

One thing missed was that it’s a good idea, before disconnecting any fuel lines, to at least momentarily open the gas tank cap to relieve any built up pressure in the fuel system. This is especially true in warmer climates. Voice of experience….

Otherwise, this is by far the best guide for Tundra starter R & R I’ve seen. Many thanks!!

Written by:ricco
Posted on:May 21, 2015 at 9:04 pm

Thank you very much for the walk thru. Greatly appreciated

Written by:Robert
Posted on:June 7, 2015 at 12:49 am

This was a very nice tutorial w/ the pictures. Really let me know where those pesky starter bolts where located.

Thank you

Written by:andrew
Posted on:June 11, 2015 at 8:11 am

I just wanted to say thank you for posting this.saved me a lot of grief.

Written by:Jon Ekvall
Posted on:August 14, 2015 at 2:46 pm

Excellent write-up! Thank you!

Written by:Colts fan
Posted on:August 31, 2015 at 1:37 am

Some guy,
I just wanted to say thank you for this excellent post, this was very helpful and well documented. I had the same problem as Randy (comment 51) with the sucking sound. It turned out to be four small metal rings that were included in the new gaskets I bought at AZ once the metal rings were removed it starts and runs perfect again. Thank you very much!

Written by:Brian
Posted on:September 10, 2015 at 6:38 pm

Great write up as many have said. My 2002 Tundra is having starter problems. Sometimes when I turn the key, the starter doesn’t go. If I hold the key turned, it will eventually start, but if I let go of the key it won’t start. I assume it is a solenoid so I will be pulling the starter for a full rebuild.

So I have a question on step 12. I have the alldata procedure and they do not indicate the removing the fuel line at this point. Is the 2002 different from the 2001 in this case? I guess I’ll find out when I get in there, but I hope someone can comment before that.

Thanks, Brian

Written by:Tsquared
Posted on:September 23, 2015 at 12:18 am

I have been living with the “click” for over 3 years. It always eventually started but I knew this was in my future. I ran into problems getting the bolts off the back of the engine. I have large hands. I ended up taking the wiring harness loose to give me a little extra room at the back of the block. I went with the O’rieley rebuilt for $69 out the door. My other “gotcha” was my latch on my airbox broke – A trip to the dealer…

Good job on the details for the procedure. You offered some good insight.

Written by:FattBoy
Posted on:December 3, 2015 at 1:16 pm

GR8 article, just want to add a few tips that will save a lot of ugly words…. Instead of disconnecting the fuel line at the pressure regulator, there is a union down just below that line about a foot(keeps from having to keep those little copper gaskets in check). Also, purchase two 35941 felpro gaskets and remove the water crossover pipe at the rear of the engine. This will give you soooo much more room to remove and reinstall those nasty starter mounting bolts!

Written by:Eric in BC
Posted on:December 4, 2015 at 11:14 am

I finished this project a few weeks ago, and the results are great. Like others have mentioned, Someguy’s description and photos are spot on, and remarkably helpful. I was also a little nervous starting this project, but it went smoother than I could have imagined.
My hands are modest size, so I didn’t have too much trouble with the starter bolts. I used a deep socket back there, and It fit fine.
One or 2 of the blue injector plugs were a little resistant to remove, but gentle persistence paid off…I was able to get all 8 without damaging any o-rings. If they seem stuck, then just keep wiggling while pressing on the little release-catch. I used a pair of needle-nosed pliers for one of them, but be careful about applying too much pressure, as these seem like delicate & pricey little things!
I also had the squirrel’s nest on top of the engine block. When pulling off the engine block, be very careful that none of this debris falls down into the intake ports. I also had sand and grit in this area from years of winter driving. I thought after, that it might be a good idea to blow this area out with compressed air before starting the job, but this could create more problems than help…not sure.
I had my original Denso starter rebuilt at a local shop. This didn’t really save me any money, but it was the quickest way for me to get a re-built Denso unit, which had lasted me 300k original kms. After I finished the job, the truck started up right away. Oddly, a couple of days later when I went to start it again in the garage, all I could here was that annoying click of the solenoid!
A day later, it started fine. The day after that a click…what the heck? I was puzzled. A couple of days later it started fine, and has been ever since, and I have been confidently driving here and there, with plenty of stops and starts. My guess (and only a guess!), is that the new contacts and brushes needed a few times to “bed” in, and now that they are, I have no problems. Again, this is my theory, which could indeed be completely bogus.
Regardless, someguy’s instructions are brilliant, and helped to make me now much more confident at dealing with repair challenges to my aging vehicles. Someguy, I hope you’re doing well, as I haven’t seen any posts from you here in a couple of years. Your contribution has benefitted the lives of many Tundra owners!

Written by:Glenda Davis
Posted on:January 9, 2016 at 9:01 am

i had a mechanic put starter inmy toyota corolla I had sincw 2009 never had to take to shop never broke down but now I can cnot deivw car it goes into revwrsw too fasr and drives forwaed without stopping too fast almost killed my daughter getting off feeeway and would not stop what is the problem

Written by:J B
Posted on:January 9, 2016 at 3:00 pm

Wow, that’s scary. This is a life-safety issue–don’t drive the car! Have it towed to a mechanic you trust and have them go over it with a fine-tooth comb. Changing the starter shouldn’t have done anything to the other systems. Perhaps the first mechanic unplugged a sensor into the transmission and didn’t reconnect it?

Written by:Glenda Davis
Posted on:January 9, 2016 at 9:02 am

sorry,early in the morning with spelling freeway,reverse,forward

Written by:Danielle
Posted on:February 4, 2016 at 12:55 pm

Changed starter everything is back together but now it skipping. What did I do?

Written by:J B
Posted on:February 4, 2016 at 1:09 pm

Double check all the sensor connectors, the connectors on the fuel injectors, and vacuum hoses.

Written by:Alex
Posted on:March 30, 2016 at 10:15 pm

This is an amazing guide! A question (and then the back story): without taking apart the engine, is it possible to hit the starter with a hammer? Or anything heavy, or any shape?

My 2000 Tundra developed an electrical problem in a rain storm a few days ago, secondary to a leaky gasket in the windshield. The result was a short circuit, such that while I was sleeping the starter started to crank. My neighbor woke me to tell me the truck was possessed. It was pretty freaky. I started the truck and the starter continued to crank while the truck was running, and the engine would stall out, then restart. So I just disconnected the battery. After drying things for a day and recharging the battery, it appeared the ignition switch was dead, so I replaced that this evening. That was the first repair I’ve ever done on my own — it was awesome. With the ignition replaced, current is passing to the starter, and it’s dead – no cranking at all. I’m hopeful if I can bang on the starter it might crank (this apparently is a pretty common way to get a tiny bit more life out of it). I did this repair in the dark, and I couldn’t see any access to the starter motor, to bang on it. From what you describe in this post, it seems as though even if I pull off the skid plate to come in from underneath, I might be foiled.

Any other suggestions welcomed! And thanks!!!

Written by:J B
Posted on:March 31, 2016 at 9:51 am

Nope…the starter is completely entombed under the manifold and nestled in the valley of the cylinder heads. When you take the starter out, take it to the local parts store and have them test it. It may just have a burned-out solenoid, which is cheaper to replace than the whole starter.

Written by:george parker
Posted on:May 2, 2016 at 3:44 pm

very accurate information and helpful hints. A very useful tool

Written by:Robert Escandon
Posted on:May 2, 2016 at 7:38 pm

This was awesome help. I just wish I had seen it before I took it apart. I removed the coolant bypass that’s on top of the starter to get to that rear bolt. Found out it was not that difficult if I would have left in on. Anyway very very helpful. Thanks. Now I have to replace water pump. It started grinding and heating up right after I started it. Thanks, thanks thanks.